Nanda Devi Trek in the footsteps of Shipton and Tilman

This trek to the outer rim of the Nanda Devi Sanctuary follows the route taken by Shipton and Tilman for part of the way and has spectacular views most of the time from the trail. The objective is to get a close view of Nanda Devi and additional highlights are Roop Kund and great views of Trisul.

Roop Kund is the sacred location where thousands of devout pilgrims walk to every 12 years to pay homage. They undertake a difficult hike to the lake from Nauti village, near Karnaprayag. The pilgrims are said to be led by a mysterious four-horned ram, which takes them from there through Roop Kund to the shrine of Nanda Devi, where it disappears. The pilgrims carry a golden idol of the goddess, Nanda Devi on a silver palanquin.

Nanda Devi - the highest peak completely within Indian territory, is a popular trek for local and international hikers. The area known as the sanctuary proved so popular that there are restrictions and a large area is sealed off from trekkers. There are however, many interesting areas open to the public and we lead you to the spectacular Kauri pass on this trek.

Itinerary

Day 1  Arrive Delhi.  You are met on arrival and transferred to the Ashok Country Resort. We spend an afternoon sightseeing in Delhi.

Day 2  Delhi – Hardiwar  We take the overnight train to Hardiwar and after breakfast we make a brief visit of the highlights of Hardiwar and Rishikesh before lunch. In the afternoon we drive to Rudraprag (4 hrs). On arrival we check in at Hotel Monal Resort. B, L, D.

Day 3  Mandoli to Didana (8640ft /2634m). An early start to the 5 hour drive to Mandoli, first following the Ganges until Deoprayag, where the Alaknanda and Bagirathi rivers meet. The road then follows the Alaknanda River, and finally the Pindar River up to Tharali. The road conditions are good until Karnprayag, thereafter there are often rough sections to Mandoli. We start trekking down into Gyan Ganga Valley initially through rhododendron and oak forest.  About two hours downhill as we follow the river before a climb to Didana. Here we meet our kitchen staff who arrived the day before to set up the tents for you. Overnight camp. 5 hour drive. 4 hour trek.  B, L, D.

Day 4 Didana to Bedni Bughyal (11000ft /3354m). Today starts with a serious uphill section through forest. About three hours later we reach the tree line and if the clouds allow we will have wonderful views of Chaukhamba and Nilkanth.  At this point we are on a grassy ridge leading to the meadows of Bedni Bughyal. This high meadow is the main area used for camping by travellers on the great pilgrimage to Roop Kund which takes place every 12 years. It is a beautiful and interesting place dotted with shrines and temples. In the morning there will be a tremendous view of Trisul above the shilasamudra glacier, as well as Nilkanth to the north-west. Overnight camp. 5 - 6 hour trek.  B, L, D.

Day 5 Acclimatisation at 11000ft /3354m  Trekking higher then dropping down to the same camp at Bedni Bughyal to improve the acclimatisation process. Overnight camp. 5 hour trek.  B, L, D.

Day 6  Acclimatisation at 12500ft /3860m Trek higher then drop down to a campsite some 500 metres higher than Bedni Bughyal to improve the acclimatisation process. Overnight camp. 5 hour trek.  B, L, D.

Day 7 Trek to Bhogubasa (13451ft /4100m)  The trail crosses a hump to reach Bistola and then climbs up to Bhogubasa, an improvised stone shelter that is generally used by local pilgrims. Overnight camp. 5 hour trek.  B, L, D.

Day 8 Bhogubasa to Roop Kund (15092ft /4600m) & return to Bhogubasa.  In the morning if the weather is clear you will have great views of Trisul and the mountains around. An arduous trek of about three hours gets you to Roop Kund. This is an optional trip for those who are feeling fit and are acclimatising well. Alternatively provision will be made to hike down to Wan for those who do not feel strong enough. At Roop Kund, if the snow is not too deep, the mysterious skeletons and remains of human beings and horses can be seen, as detailed in the books of Shipman and Tilman. There are also great views of the surrounding glaciers and high peaks. The lake is very scenic and we rest here and take in the atmosphere.  We hike another 30 minutes or so up to the ridge above the lake where you will be rewarded with wonderful views of Trisul and the surrounding mountains. After spending some time exploring the area we return to Bhogubasa. Overnight camp. 6 hour trek.  B, L, D.

Day 9 Bhogubasa to Wan. (8045ft /2437m).  The route from here is different to the standard trek to allow a shorter itinerary.  Our day begins with a 3-hour return trek to Bedni Bugyal - a long steep descent through a fine forest of firs and rhododendrons and across a beautiful clearing. After another drop down, we reach the river which is a good place for lunch. After lunch we climb upwards to reach the main valley, and onward to Wan which lies at the head of the valley. We camp above the village on a wide tree lined terrace. Just above us is the sacred grove of Latu, another famous local devta (spirit), whose temple lies under one of the biggest deodar trees in India. Wan is a fascinating old village where the men and women continue to wear traditional Garhwali brown, homespun wool blankets pinned across the chest. Overnight camp. 8 hour trek.  B, L, D.

Day 10  Wan to Sutol. (7500ft /2300m/)  We continue on past Latu's temple where the trail climbs gently up through magnificent cypress trees to the beautiful Kukin Khal (pass) at 10070ft /3069m, reached in about 2 hours. There are two graves of holy men here. The path drops down to broad meadows with the track marked with stone rows on either side. Another 45 minutes takes you to the end of the broad meadows to near Kunol. From here the trail drops down as we hike through a magnificent forest, filled with the sounds of monkeys. We finish the day at the confluence of two rivers below Sutol where we camp. You may get views of Trisul through the trees.  Overnight camp. 6 hour trek.  B, L, D.

Day 09  Sutol to Dekhandhar. (6955ft /2120m). A short climb brings us to Sutol then the trail follows a valley with a long downhill section to the river below.  The trail has interesting views at the top and eventually through forest which has a wonderful smell. After dropping to the river, crossed by a green girder footbridge there is a long steep climb to a little temple at a col (8200ft.) From here we pass through fields and small-holdings, and then drop once again to a river, where there is a good place for lunch (we will have done about four and a half hours walking). The trail then leads us to a bridge and afterwards a gradual climb through forest to emerge near farms and fields to a splendid camp site near Dekhandhar on a ridge with amazing views of Trisul, (one and a quarter hours from the lunch stop). Overnight camp. 6 hour trek.  B, L, D.

Day 10 Dekhandhar to Ghunni. (8200ft /2500m) From Dekhandhar we pass fields and smallholdings then drop to a river, there is a good place for lunch after a total of about three hours. A steep upper track leads you to a bridge and then a gradual climb through forest to emerge near farms and fields with possible further views of Trisul, before reaching the village of Ala, which has a house with magnificent carvings on the porch. After three hours from your lunch stop you reach your camp by the school of the small village of Ghunni. It should be possible to visit the nearby village of Ramani to have a look round. It is a typical Garhwal village with friendly people and attractive houses with heavy slate roofs and paved alleys surrounded by fertile fields. It has a solar-powered electricity scheme. Overnight camp. 4 hour trek.  B, L, D.

Day 11 Ghunni to Kaliaghat. (7500ft /2300m) The day starts with climb on steep ground to an open grassy meadow. As we climb snowcapped mountains emerge above the trees. The trail continues through rhododendron, pines and oak with patches of pasture used for summer grazing. We then trek gently down for a while across more pastures and open glades, then into a lovely forest of horse chestnuts and walnut trees adorned with a number of waterfalls. The trail carries on down past small farms through woods to the spectacular suspension bridge at Birehi Gorge, currently the playground for a large number of monkeys. From here the steep climb takes us back uphill for about one and a half-hours. The trail now flattens out as we pass through fine rhododendron forest. There are many streams and waterfalls as the trail meanders through the trees. If you look down to the deep gorge below you may see the remains of the landslide and Gauna Lake, which burst its banks flooding the whole of the valley right down to Rishikesh in 1897. We reach our campsite near the village of Pana. Overnight camp. 8 hour trek.  B, L, D.

Day 12 Kaliaghat to Domabhiti. (11000ft /3353m) The trail starts with a steep climb to a col at about 3000m. The trail now descends gently, traversing along the valley, to open meadows with views across to the Kuari Pass. The track then traverses down around the side of the valley, across several streams, before it plunges down a very steep and loose section, much of which has been washed away by the monsoons - an awkward and loose descent. At the bottom, you will see that the river has cut through a deep rocky dramatic gorge, to your right. This is wild country and there are no settlements, while blue sheep and the Himalayan black bear are said to be roaming here. From the river, it is a very steep climb of about 3000 feet (900 m) with a small break about half the way up to cross a large stream. A final climb brings you above the tree-line to the campsite on the large pastures where sheep and goats graze in summer, with the Kauri Pass towering above. Overnight camp. 7 hour trek.  B, L, D.

Day 13  Kauri Khal (Pass) (12000ft /3658m) to Kulara (11155ft /3400m). The day starts with a steep climb up into rhododendron forest then descends gently, traversing along the valley. This is wild country and there are no settlements, while blue sheep and the Himalayan black bear are said to be roaming here. From the river, it is a very steep climb of about 3,000ft/900m with a small break about half the way up to cross a large stream. A final climb brings you above the tree-line to a pasture where sheep and goats graze in summer. The Kauri Pass towers above. The climb up to the pass is made on a zigzag track to the top. You make a traverse along the high ridge past a shrine to Shiva before dropping down to your camp at Kulara which is the name given to a clearing amongst the Rhododendrons about half an hour and 500ft/150m below Shiva's shrine to await the spectacular views of the morning. Overnight camp. 8 hour trek.  B, L, D.

Day 14  Kulara to Tapovan. (6562ft /2,000m), Drive to Joshimath. A long way below lies Tapovan and the roadhead. A 5-hr walk. We start with a steep descent to the Tapovan, down through woods and pastures. At Tapovan your bus will be waiting for the drive to Joshimath which, although having none of the elegance of its sister hill resorts, does have a charm and beauty of its own. The area is the centre of the Indian skiing country. Overnight in the Uday Palace Hotel. 6 hour trek.  B, L, D.

Day 15  Rishikesh - Drive We follow the route you took at the start of the trek to return to Rishikesh. Overnight in a middle price hotel.  B, L, D.

Day 16 Rishikesh - Delhi.  A morning of relaxing or looking around Rishikesh at the people, temples and museums, for Rishikesh has a special atmosphere, which you should not miss.  Drive back to Delhi. End of service.

Visas
A visa is required for India and this will cost about £30 in the UK. This can be arranged on arrival, but is best obtained in advance from the Indian High Commission in London or nearest to you.

Travel Insurance
Comprehensive personal insurance, including search and rescue is required on this trip. For UK residents we recommend the BMC policies www.thebmc.co.uk